Once the back cupboards, bed frame and base and shower room were complete, moving forwards in the bus, the next logical thing to build was the closet. This went up quite quickly. We use 1”x2” timber frame that we adding 5mm ply to on the bedroom side to keep the nice white clean bedroom interior feel. We then opted for reclaimed wood on the front and sofa side of the closet to… Read More

Once the bedframe was built we knew how much space we had at the back for the cupboards. This was already somewhat pre-defined as the two heaters on the roof were already installed and was one of the main reasons we had opted for the rear cupboards. We have an Eberspacher Diesel water-to-air heater installed on the bus, but unfortunately it isn’t working. After toying with the idea of stripping it all… Read More

Once the bedframe was complete we installed the lockable water inlet on the outside of the bus and the fiamma 70l fresh water storage tank under the bed frame. We had forgotten to mark out the best place for the water inlet at the framing/insulation stage, so ended up drilling into a one and half inch thick steel plate (which resulted in about 30 drill bits dying and about 5 hours of… Read More

Once the wall paint had dried we were eager to get onto making the bed. We wanted to start with this as the size of the bed was would determine how much space we would have left in various areas of the rest of the bus. We decided not to put the bed right to the back of the bus, but to add in two cupboards in the back then the bed… Read More

Once we had all the wall panels up, we couldn’t help thinking how messy it looked. We wanted to find the best way to fill in all the panel joins which could withstand being shaken in the bus while driving. At first we decided to keep our saw dust we had accumulated from our circular saw and mix this into a paste with PVA glue, this was very thick and quiet difficult… Read More

Panelling the walls of the bus is a huge job; we used 4 by 8 foot 5mm superior external grade plywood. This was £30 a sheet which we didn’t realise until after we received the bill!!! We switched to a much cheaper 6mm Malaysian ply for the internal walls (do not use the Chinese we learnt that the hard way) this cost £ 12 a sheet. Triple checking the measurements is essential… Read More

Wiring the Electrics into the bus was one of the most daunting tasks we faced; with neither of us having any previous experience, the whole thing seemed very confusing! We hope this diagram and steps help make this an easier process for you Make a diagram of everything you want to wire This is important. It will enable you to have a clear picture of where every output / power requirement is… Read More

We decided not to take out our existing flooring in the bus and to simply apply our flooring over this. We covered the whole floor in the same recticle insulation we used on the walls. We could see that our flooring was not level  so we tried to add additional silver insulation foam in the middle to compensate this, however we did not add enough and once completed the flooring was still… Read More

As our bus had a small amount of cheap Styrofoam insulation in the ceiling and wall panels, we wanted to add additional installation. We decided that 25mm Recticel Rigid Insulation Board would work best.  This fitted nicely within our wall framing and is very easy to cut and use. We had to buy about 20 Recticel boards as we were using it for the walls, celling and floor, this cost a whopping… Read More

If you leave all the windows as simple large single glazed panels in your bus you will come into big problems with insulation down the line. During winters it will be freezing and in summer it will be boiling. (I can testify to this as my last campervan had no insulation and full length windows down each side of the bus – had temperatures in central Spain in the bus of 60… Read More